Belmar restaurant a welcome addition to state's barbecue scene
Jerseyans have much to learn about barbecue. Witness the reaction from colleagues when I brought back food from Jersey Shore BBQ in Belmar.
"Looks like it’s undercooked," one said of a rack of St. Louis ribs.
"It’s supposed to be pink," I countered.
When it comes to real barbecue, think pink. Pink is your friend. Pink smoke rings don’t mean undercooked; they mean hours of cooking at low temperatures. "Low and slow" is the pitmaster’s mantra.
If I hear one more person rave about their ribs "falling off the bone," I may get ill. True barbecue doesn’t behave like that.
Doug Walsh has taken on the mighty challenge of convincing New Jerseyans, especially those living in the ’que wasteland known as the Jersey Shore, that low-and-slow is the way to go."
Most people in New Jersey don’t know true barbecue," said the 38-year-old owner of Jersey Shore BBQ, which opened last May.
Walsh, originally from Middletown, lived for 10 years in Texas, where he and his stepfather entered barbecue competitions. He later moved back to Jersey and set up a catering business, but kept his day job as a solutions architect for a staffing company.
He owns two smokers: a custom-built 4,000-pound "monstrosity" used in his catering business, and a more conventional Southern Pride smoker.
His barbecue? Good stuff, especially the ribs ($17.99, includes two sides), distinguished by a smoky, peppery rub. Ingredients include brown sugar, salt, garlic and black pepper; I’d advise getting sauce on the side and enjoying the meat on its own. Walsh offers two barbecue sauces — a vinegary Carolina version, and a tomatoey Texas sauce with Coca-Cola added.
The sliced brisket sandwich ($7.99 sandwich only, $9.99 for the platter, which includes two sides) is commendable, albeit drowning in sauce. Next time, I’ll get it dry.
The pulled pork sandwich ($6.99, $8.99) combines juicy meat and a tasty grilled bun. The blackened catfish po’ boy ($7.99, $9.99) seemed more deli sandwich than New Orleans knockoff, though. And the habanero apricot wings ($6.99) were more fruity than fiery.
The Killer BBQ Nachos ($6.99) with pulled pork and brisket, three cheeses and homemade guacamole is a welcome departure from those nasty movie theater nachos.
Sides? Loved the ranch beans, a combination of black and pinto beans, dry rub, onions — and Dr. Pepper. The hand-cut fries are first-rate.
Other items include pulled pork/pulled chicken sliders ($5.99); grilled chicken breast sandwich ($6.99); the Olde-Fashioned Cheesy Burger ($5.99); and Islamorada key lime pie ($3.99)."
I was tired of going out and getting crap," Walsh said of one reason behind opening Jersey Shore BBQ.It’s not the best barbecue in the state — this is still a barbecue barrens, so the word "best" would be faint praise — but Jersey Shore BBQ is head and pork shoulders above most.
